A dress shirt should suit the level of formality, the tailoring worn with it and the type of collar and cuff you prefer. White and light blue are the most versatile choices, while stripes, houndstooth and small patterns add detail without moving far from classic business clothing.
Poplin is smooth and lightweight, while twill has more texture and a little more weight. Oxford fabrics add visible texture but can still work with tailoring. Barrel cuffs suit everyday business wear, while French cuffs are better for more formal occasions.
Check the individual measurements as well as the collar shape. Spread and cutaway collars work well with ties and tailoring, while tuxedo and bib-front shirts are intended for specific formal settings.