A pocket square should work with the jacket, shirt and tie without matching another accessory exactly. Start with color: repeat a tone already present in the outfit or introduce a contrasting color that still fits the overall palette. White is especially useful with formal tailoring, while navy, burgundy, green and light blue are easy to combine.
Silk has a soft sheen and works well with worsted wool suits, dinner jackets and fuller folds such as the puff. Linen has a drier texture and holds sharper folds, making it a good choice for the classic straight fold and summer tailoring. Cotton is another matte option with enough structure for clean folds.
Plain pocket squares are easy to combine with patterned ties or jackets, while paisley, floral and geometric designs add more interest when the rest of the outfit is simple. If you wear both a tie and pocket square, connect them through part of the color palette rather than choosing an exact match.